Walnut Sideboard - Making the Sideboard Door Handles

Sideboard door handle and router

I removed most of the waste material with a router on the double jig seen here in the background.

Sideboard door handle secured in custom jig

I then placed on another jig for the next process.

Using custom made scraper to shape the sideboard door handles

Shaping the sideboard door handles with purpose made scrapers cut from high carbon steel.

Scrapers made for purpose from high carbon steel

 

Inspecting the door handles

Inspecting a door handle down it's length.

One of the door handles with dominos inserted

One of the handles with dominos inserted.

Finished handles glued to door panels ready for trimming

Handles glued on the door panels, about to be trimmed.

 

Walnut Sideboard - Veneered Door Panels

Veneers cut into strips

The hand cut veneers that were put aside a few months ago have been thicknessed to 2.8mm and cut into strips which will be used to make up the veneered door panels.

Hand jointing veneer strips on a shooting board

Each strip was then jointed by hand on a shooting board.

Veneers cut at 52 degrees then glued together in pairs

Then cut at 52 degrees and laid out, numbered, and glued together in pairs. Then the pairs were glued together.

Quarter panels jointed then glued together to make a panel face

After the quarter panels were jointed, then glued to each other to make up a panel face.

Veneer panels laid out for selection ready to be vacuum bagged

Laid out for selection and about to be vacuum bagged.

Finished sideboard veneered door panels ready for handles

After a lot of scraping and sanding the finished door panels are ready for their handles.

 

Walnut Sideboard - Top, Back and Sides

Sideboard top jointed up

The sideboard top jointed up, which will be left settle for a week before being sized, then the curved chamfers put on the front and sides.

Walnut sideboard back

The back having been made up and fitted.

Sideboard side panel with wedged through tenons

Side with the legs on and the through wedged mortise and tenons. The bottom leg tenons still need flushing off here.

 

Handmade Legs for a Bespoke Sideboard

To keep the sideboard legs stable I decided to make them with a birch ply core and solid walnut mitred corners.

Legs glued and clamped

Gluing up the core then 2 sides, then core and two sets of sides, took time and all the small clamps in the workshop.

Sideboard legs glued and clamped

 

legs glued and clamped up

 

Blocks used to aid glue-up

Here you can see all the blocks that aided the glue up. They were attached with glue and paper joint to allow easy removal afterwards.

sideboard legs with mortises cut

Cutting out the mortises. You can just see the birch ply core.

 

Walnut Sideboard - Glue Up

Sideboard glue up

Here I have started the glue up of the rails on to the panels.

Dry fit assembly with clamping blocks

And here the divisions and shelf on to the base.

Sideboard dry-fit clamping run

And then the sides and drawer panel.

Sideboard glued up with mock top

A mock-up of the sideboard top was made in MDF in order to get approval from the client on the chamfer detailing and sculpting before committing those to the real walnut top.

Chamfers on underside of mock top

Here you can see the curved chamfer on the underside of the mock-up top.

 

Walnut Sideboard - Veneered Panels

Below we can see one of the longer panels with its side lippings already glued on and the front lippings mortised and ready to be glued up.

Panels with walnut lippings

And here the two smaller panels having their side lippings glued up.

Panels with side lippings being glued up

I marked up the veneers, cut them and prepared them into packs.

Veneers cut and prepped into packs

Trimming the packs in a router set up.

A pack of veneers sandwiched between two sheets of MDF and then trimmed with a bearing cutter on the router.

Veneers sandwiched between MDF for trimming

Some of the packs trimmed and ready for taping together.

Trimmed packs ready for taping

Book matching the veneer leafs prior to taping.

Book matching veneer leafs

It's best only to tape together enough veneers to press in one day. If the veneers are taped and left overnight the sellotape tends to stretch and can pull apart, causing glue lines during pressing.

Starting to tape together the individual veneer leafs

Taping together veneers.

Two veneer leafs taped together

Using a small veneer roller to apply pressure to the tape.

Taping the third strip

 

Three veneer strips taped for one panel

Once they're taped together the veneers can be held up to the light to see if there are any gaps between the leafs of veneer.

Dry run - panels and their veneers

Dry run - all the panels laid out with their corresponding veneers on the pressing platens.

Veneer vacuum press

 

Pullin a good vacuum on the veneer press

With the urea formaldehyde based glue applied and in the press, pulling  a good  vacuum of about 13psi.

One of the veneered panels as removed next morning

The next morning, after taking the veneered panels out of the bag press, I removed the tape and scraped off any glue that had squeezed out during the night.

One of the veneered panels after cleaning up

The veneered panel scraped, sanded and ready for cutting.